Old World Jordan

For being as small as it is – roughly the size of Maine – Jordan punches way above its weight class when it comes to interesting things to see and do. The country was at the center of trade, religion, and politics for many, many years. Lots and lots of people have come through here, set up their cities and their holy places and their ruling classes only to be run off by, or absorbed into, the the next group of people who had their own ideas for holy places and cities and ruling classes.

A lot of the old cities are surprisingly intact throughout the country. We covered Petra in an earlier post, so we’ll skip that here. Instead, we’d like to focus on some of the less well known sites.

Biblical Sites
Mt. Nebo – This is the peak from which Moses was finally able to look out onto the Promised Land before he died. It’s a popular place, if a little out of the way. We were there on a particularly hazy day, so the view wasn’t great. But the small church on the top of the mountain was a real treat.

The view from the top of Mt. Nebo. I hope it was a clearer day when Moses was here. Although, a hazy view of the Promised Land seems on point, metaphorically speaking. Photo ©2018 by Tricia Griffin.

The Moses Memorial Church is a 6th century structure that is part of a still-active monastery. The church hosts some of the best mosaics in the country, dating from about 530 CE.

The remains of the baptismal in the Moses Memorial Church. I am in love with the detail work. Photo ©2018 by Tricia Griffin.

The big masterpiece is a hunting and herding scene rendered in mosaic tile. It was a wonderful piece to see in person, if a little unexpected for a church.

Detail from the hunting mosaic. There must be a better way to kill a bear. Photo ©2018 by Tricia Griffin.

Umm Qais, known in the Bible as Gadara, is the town where Jesus famously relocated some pesky demons out of two men and into a herd of pigs. My Bible teacher told this story when I was a kid to illustrate Jesus’ power over evil. Neither the Bible, nor my (wonderful) teacher, explained what happened to the demons after the pigs threw themselves into the sea and died, or for that matter what ever became of the poor guy who was suddenly without his herd of pigs.

We only know that the Gadarenes promptly asked Jesus to leave. Perhaps the  inconvenience of a few demons was preferable to losing their livestock. That’s maybe the bigger lesson. Jesus is a great many things; good for the economy is not one of them.

The North Theater in Umm Qais. Freed from demons and the herdsmen who harbored them, it’s now host to lots of school groups. The theater is built from black basalt. Photo ©2018 by Tricia Griffin.
Roman columns still stand among the wildflowers. Photo ©2018 by Tricia Griffin

The ruins of Umm Qais are impressive to walk through. We looked out over the Sea of Galilee onto Palestine and Israel while eating lunch at the restaurant that’s on the grounds. It was like dining in the mist of history.

There are a bunch of other biblical sites around Jordan. One in particular that we did not make it to is Bethany Beyond the Jordan, where the Bible says John baptized Jesus. We skipped because a) it’s hard to get to, b) it didn’t seem like there was anything there anymore, and c) there is a mirror site on the Israeli side of the Sea of Galilee where they also claim the honor of Jesus’ baptismal site.

Byzantine Mosaics in Madaba
Madaba on its own is a wonderful stop. The quaint town is host to a warm and welcoming community made up of both Muslims and Christians. Its streets are lined with shops that sell everything from shoes to meat to pots and pans. What makes it even more special is that people have been living here for 4,500 years. Madaba was one of the lands occupied by the 12 Tribes of Israel back in the time of the Exodus.

After a rather major earthquake in 747 AD, Madaba was abandoned for 1100 years. When refugee Christians moved back in the late 19th century they found a treasure trove of Byzantine mosaic art buried beneath the rubble. I’ve become a huge fan of mosaics over the years. It’s a wonderful combination of art and puzzles that makes my nerdy heart glow.

Mosaic floor at the Madaba Archaeological Park I. This was part of a 6th century Byzantine villa. The topless lady there is Aphrodite and she is spanking Eros…for some reason. Photo ©2018 by Ryan Haskett.
The Greek Orthodox St. George’s Church hosts one of the oldest maps of the Holy Land in existence. The whole thing is in Greek, so I can’t really tell you what’s what, but this thing makes archaeologists swoon. Photo ©2018 by Tricia Griffin.
A mosaic flower remains in the ruins of the Church of the Apostles. Photo ©2018 by Tricia Griffin.

It’s an easy day walking to all the sites in this small town, including shopping along the way. You can even watch artists create new mosaics at the Madaba Institute for Mosaic Art & Restoration. I’m seriously considering taking up this hobby when we get back.

We’d be remiss if we didn’t also discuss the Shrine of the Beheading of John the Baptist in Madaba. It’s a bizarre little place. There’s nothing to suggest that John the Baptist was beheaded here, but there’s a shrine dedicated to him in an old Latin church nonetheless.

This is a thing someone made. No disrespect intended. John the Baptist is one of the guys in the Bible I liked the most. It’s just that…this is…huh. Photo ©2018 by Tricia Griffin.

The real draw is the underbelly of the church, where we saw an ancient Moabite well that still works and bold way finding signs.

ancient tunnel
It is what it says it is. A 3,000 year old tunnel. Photo ©2018 by Tricia Griffin.

Roman Ruins
Like everywhere else in the region, most of Jordan was occupied by the Romans at some point, but for a true Roman city go to Jerash. These ruins are better than Rome’s.

The remains of Hadrian’s Gate in Jerash. Photo ©2018 by Ryan Haskett.
Inside the grounds, the backside of Hadrian’s Gate next to the Hippodrome, where the chariot races would take place. Photo ©2018 by Ryan Haskett.

This city grew to prominence because of the rich soil, which still produces ample supplies of figs, olives, apples, and berries. Trade with the Nabataeans (read: Petra) made the town rich. It was only an earthquake in 747 CE that led to the city being abandoned.

So many of the buildings are in such great shape, though, that it’s almost unbelievable.

What remains of the meat market. The stalls lined the hexagon. Photo ©2018 by Tricia Griffin.
The Temple of Artemis. Eleven out of twelve of the original Corinthian columns still stand. It was built between CE 150 and 170. Photo ©2018 by Tricia Griffin.

If you are planning a trip to Jordan, know that it is perfectly safe. Our best advice is to rent a car for the full duration of your time in the country. Public transit between cities is difficult or nonexistent. If you’re the daring type you can hitchhike as it’s an acceptable way to travel in the country.


  1. I’d never thought of Jordan as having more sights to visit besides Petra. This has whetted my appetite and I’ve decidedly added Jordan to my list of “must see” locales.


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